Tuesday, 29 April 2014

Surfing on the bar

Southerly swell at 3 metres and 9 or 10 seconds period. Low tide at 11.30 but the water keeps going out for another hour. I identified it as the perfect time to go to this bar inside a bay that points south.
The day looked horrible. Driving there in the morning with rain that required the wipers at full speed. However the rain had stopped by the time we were getting into our gear and at 11 AM with the sun forgotten above the cloudy sky we launched.

We surfed almost non stop until the tide brought so much water that the waves were not braking anymore. That was around 1 PM. We then moved to the beach and we kept our festivity of surfing. Around 2.30PM someone closed the tap and in a matter of 5 minutes all the waves disapeared. We were tired already so we packed up.

A couple of endos, a few good wipe outs and plenty of beautiful rides.

Thanks Rhys for coming and for taking the photos. I was so much enjoying myslef that I didn't shot the camera even once.

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