As soon as I went out of the protection of the heads I felt the current going out and the wind coming in. The wind against the tide made for some steep waves, some white cups and a lot of apprehension of going further out, so preservation took charge and instead of doing the crossing I followed the coast of the river. When I felt a bit safer I started the crossing but not even 500 meters from the coast the waves were exceeding my capabilities at the time, so I just came back.
Since then I have made the crossing many times but those waves left a mark, they were almost standing in its place and I wanted to come back and surf them.
I have never found similar conditions again... until last Saturday, or that is what I thought. The forecast was 2-3 meters swell from NNE and wind N 10-15kn changing to NE 15-20kn. The high tide was at 11.50AM so I was in the middle of the channel at 1pm with some current going out
|See the buoy being dragged by the current?|
|Not the 2-3 m forecasted but some 2 m sets could be found.|
So I approached an island in the middle of the channel where the shallower sea bottom helps the swell to get some extra height and did some surfing.
|The water dripping is from the foam you can see on the left|