Wednesday, 29 February 2012

Standing waves

A long time ago, well not so long ago, I wanted to paddle across from Barrenjoy Beach to Central Coast. It is the exit of a river system into the sea, some 4km wide. At that time I had my slow very stable kayak and I still had very little experience in the sea.

As soon as I went out of the protection of the heads I felt the current going out and the wind coming in. The wind against the tide made for some steep waves, some white cups and a lot of apprehension of going further out, so preservation took charge and instead of doing the crossing I followed the coast of the river. When I felt a bit safer I started the crossing but not even 500 meters from the coast the waves were exceeding my capabilities at the time, so I just came back.

Since then I have made the crossing many times but those waves left a mark, they were almost standing in its place and I wanted to come back and surf them.

I have never found similar conditions again... until last Saturday, or that is what I thought. The forecast was 2-3 meters swell from NNE and wind N 10-15kn changing to NE 15-20kn. The high tide was at 11.50AM so I was in the middle of the channel at 1pm with some current going out
See the buoy being dragged by the current?
 Some swell coming in
Not the 2-3 m forecasted but some 2 m sets could be found.
and waiting for the stronger 15-20 kn wind that never came.  

So I approached an island in the middle of the channel where the shallower sea bottom helps the swell to get some extra height and did some surfing.
The water dripping is from the foam you can see on the left

They were not quite standing waves but as close as I got so far in this part of the world. But I am certain of one thing, I will keep an eye on the forecast and I will be back!!!

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