The
weather forecast has not worked well lately. Last weekend they predicted winds
and storms and the run with the wind and swell I wanted had to be changed for a
surf session on an overpopulated beach with a relentless sun and warm
temperatures. A couple of friends said lets go to Umina, a beach that has
usually good surf and is not so full of surfers as the beaches in Sydney. I
said with this forecast lets organize a car shuffle and ride the conditions.
The went anyway and had a good time, while Rhys and me stayed in
Sydney. We had to change the downwind paddle for a paddle around the crowded
beaches and a bit of surf.
This weekend the forecast was the
same so when Rhys said lets go to Umina I said yes despite the bad forecast.
Once there the sky was covered by clouds but the wind was not so bad and the storm
didn’t show up. We also had the beach for ourselves and we surfed
until we were tired... In reality I surfed until my stern got impaled in the
sand while back surfing and I hit my back hard against the cockpit rim when the
backwards motion was stopped suddenly by the crash. With my back in pain and
the body tired after almost 3 hours of playing I called it a day. Rhys kept
going a bit longer practicing his re-entry and roll in the surf. Later in the car
park he put his head down and a river of salt water came running from his nose,
that is perseverance!
The storm finally came during the
night and it was a big one with lots of rain and wind that lasted all the
Sunday too. Finally!! I thought when I woke up and organized a downwind
paddle with Barnabas. The sea developed during the night storm was perfect with
fresh but big enough wind waves to push you forward and catch enough speed to
ride some of the faster swell. The wind gusts coming from behind gave us a good
push too and more than a few breaking tops were spilled over our decks. To top
up the day we had two close encounters with the local fauna. Soon after we
started paddling I saw between sets a fin flapping against the water, I thought
it was a seal but after getting close we saw a beautiful 'baby' shark. I think
it was not a healthy specimen because it swam a bit on its side and a bit as
you expect a shark to swim, with fin erected out of the water. That side swim
was what I saw that confused me with the flapping of a fin that many seals do.
We passed it really close and it was the first time I managed to see a shark’s
body on the wild. In the past I have seen a few shark fins but never
the body that come attached to the fins. Luckily I didn’t manage to see
the teeth that come with the body.
I was a bit worried of the big
dark clouds above us, I have paddled inside an electric storm in the past and I
am very keen not to repeat that experience. Luckily no flashes of light came
down from those clouds, only heavy rain that washed the salt from my face,
diminished the vision to a few hundred meters and tingled over my
helmet incessantly.
The wind blew the water lifted by the paddle |
Many white horses riding with us. |